One of the main reasons we offer FREE WATER HEATER INSPECTIONS is to help the homeowner. Water heaters are one of the most inconvenient emergencies a homeowner can have, the last thing you want to wake up to is a flood in your garage. Water heaters that aren’t regularly maintained will have a shorter lifespan and a higher chance of breaking or bursting. 

If you have an older water heater and replacing it isn’t in the budget right now, there are a few things you can do that are inexpensive and easy to increase your home’s water heater’s operating efficiency and longevity. Did you know that adding insulation reduces heat loss by up to 45% and even saves a small percentage of water-heating costs? Flushing sediment from the tank improves efficiency and longevity. Making sure a viable anode rod hangs in the tank will help prevent its inside from rusting out and a used-up rod is much cheaper to replace than a new heater. 

Here are some steps on how to properly keep your water heater maintained:

1. Test the TPR Valve
   • First, shut off the power to the cold-water supply valve. Place a bucket under the pipe connected to the temperature pressure release (TPR) valve on top or side of the tank. (This valve opens if the tank pressure gets too high.)
2. Check the Anode Rod
   • Put a hose to the drain’s cock and let out a few gallons of water. Then fit a 1 1/16th inch socket onto the rod’s hex head on top of the heater (or under its top plate) and unscrew the rod. If it’s less than ½ inch thick or coated with calcium, buy a new one, wrap its threads with Teflon tape, put it back in the tank, and tighten security. Use this segmented rod if headroom above the tank is limited.
3. Drain the Take and Wash Out Sediment
   • Drain the remaining water in the tank into the bucket. Then, stir up the sediment on the tank’s bottom by briefly opening the cold-water supply valve. Drain and repeat until clean water comes out of the hose. Close the drain cock, refill the tank, and turn its power back on. 
4. Adjust the Temperature
   • Find the temperature dial on the side of the tank and unscrew it’s over. Adjust the dial to 120 degrees using a flathead screwdriver. 
5. Insulate the Pipes
   • Buy some self-sticking 3/8th-inch-thick foam pipe insulation that matches the pipe’s diameter. Slide the foam over the hot- cold water pipes as far as you can reach. Insulating the cold-water pipe prevents condensation in the Summer. Peel the tape and squeeze the insulation closed. If the pipe is 6 inches or less from the flue, cover it with 1-inch thick unfaced fiberglass pipe wrap.
6. Insulate the Heater
   • Cut the insulating blanket to fit around the pipes, the TPR valve, and the temperature control sticking out of the tank. Wrap the side of the tank, and seal cuts with foil tape. Do not cover the tops of oil or gas heaters. Cap an electric heater with an oversized circle of insulation and tape its edge securely to the side of the tank.